Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone

نویسندگان

چکیده

Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal understanding relative influence wave-by-wave variations mean-water level, wave height incipient breaking on mass transport properties surf zone. It is shown quantitatively that elevated local level correlates positively increased at free surface. ADV fluid column suggest depth-integrated also only weakly linked to wave-breaking events.

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ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Geophysical Research Letters

سال: 2021

ISSN: ['1944-8007', '0094-8276']

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/2021gl095722